Seasons

Handsome sophistication where Birkenstocks reign

The door is on F Street, across from the Regal Cinema and just a block from the Amtrak station––in other words, convenient. The 140-seat Seasons in Davis is the perfect spot for Sunday brunch and a movie, and lunch or dinner any time except Monday, when the establishment takes the day off.
    The restaurant itself is a handsome space, lots of polished wood and tasteful art, with a long bar where you can sample one of their signature drinks. In a city known at times to be a bit on the casual side when it comes to dining service (think T-shirts and Birkenstocks), the friendly, knowledgeable and efficient staff at Seasons is a refreshing change. Though the menu and wine list make Seasons a destination restaurant, the prices do not conspire to make it for ‘special occasions only’. One can dine with wine for a surprisingly reasonable sum, and as a no-charge frill watch the action in the L-shaped open kitchen, presided over by talented chef Jeffry Murphy.
    The lunch menu is a comfortable stroll through the familiar: the potato and leek soup with bacon, an excellent Romaine and apple salad, a barbecue pork sandwich, one of their flatbreads from the open oven, a Kobe beef burger or, a favorite, an artisan ham and cheese on sourdough bread. Of the lot I would skip the burger and the barbecue (I can’t believe I am saying that) and go for the ham and cheese with the Romaine salad, the Wednesday lunch special of chicken and dumplings, or Friday’s prawn and seafood risotto. If it were Sunday brunch, then the eggs Benedict, with one of the best Hollandaise sauces in my memory, would be the answer.
    Dinner picks are tougher, though I find it almost inconceivable that I would ever pass up the pan-seared crusted ahi tuna: two generous slices of tuna seared rare with a cucumber and pickled ginger salad. It is an example of how sweet and sour, soft and crunchy can combine. For the sheer novelty of it, try the earthy foie gras crème brûlée, served cold. I wish the accompanying apple compote was a bit more assertive, but the crunch and sourness of the thin slices of baby gherkin make up for it.
    For entrées, try the rosemary lamb ossobucco with creamy polenta or the grilled salmon with its perfect grill marks, moist interior and pleasingly crisp surface. There is also the date and almond-stuffed quail or the mustard-glazed pork, and for vegetarians (or simply risotto lovers), their winter risotto. If I had a complaint about any of them it would be that now and again the kitchen goes a bit heavy with the salt on a few dishes. One also need remember that the menu does change with—yes!—the seasons, as the chef tries to use as many local products as possible.
    Seasons has a thoughtful, well-priced list of wines, a good percentage of them small allotment bottlings, plus a nice selection of wines by the glass. The list of after-dinner drinks is also comprehensive. Speaking of temptations, the desserts are, like the rest of the dishes, nicely portioned, so sharing the bread pudding, fruit crisp or the staff-favorite, Scharffen Berger chocolate brownie with house-made caramel gelato, would be a pleasant end to a first-rate dining experience at Davis’ premier restaurant.
    Lunch and Sunday brunch entrées are $7.95 to $11.95. Appetizers range from $8.75 to $13.50 while dinner entrées are $14.50 to $24.95. Desserts are all $6.50. The chef’s four-course wine-themed menus are $35 when offered. If you bring your own wine, corkage is $15.—C.N.

Seasons is located at 102 F St. in Davis; their telephone number is (530) 750-1801. They are open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, from noon to 2 p.m. on Saturday, and for Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. They begin dinner service at 5 p.m., serving until 9 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday, and until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Major credit cards and reservations are accepted. There is adequate parking nearby in lots or on the street.

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