Email this page  Print this page  del.icio.us  digg  yahoo!  Comments

Tucos Wine Market and Café

A world of flavors, one small plate at a time

Tucos may be small but the big bold flavors offered on the tapas-sized plates are not to be missed.
Photo: Pru Mendez

The Davis dining scene is known for small, independently owned restaurants featuring regional cuisine at reasonable prices, and TUCOS WINE MARKET AND CAFÉ. Since opening in 2004, Tucos has developed a faithful following and has set itself apart with chef-owner Pru Mendez’s creative mix of small plate flavors.

The large olive tree in front of the buttery yellow building contributes to Tucos’ tucked-away feeling, providing a canopy for the five-table patio. The interior of the restaurant is not much bigger than the patio, with 11 tables and bar seating for four facing the tiny yet efficient kitchen. It is perfect for couples, foursomes or a meal-for-one hideaway.

True to its name, this is the place for wine. Elegantly displayed on built-in shelving, the collection is an impressive mix of wines from California, Europe, Africa, Australia and South America. Nearly 25 wines are sold by the glass or bottle on any given day, and for those who have trouble selecting a wine, the servers are more than happy to recommend one that will go with your meal. Or choose from one of the six flights, which is a great way to try four wines for about the same price as a single glass.

The menu is as diverse as the wine list, with a mix of world flavors and cooking techniques but with an emphasis on South American cuisine. Broken up by plate size—oysters and snacks; soups, salads and small plates; and sandwiches and large plates—the dishes feature ingredients from local growers and producers, such as pasture-raised beef from Niman Ranch, Cow Girl Creamery cheese and produce from Riverdog Farm. The large-plate selections are just the right size for a satisfying lunch or dinner. The remaining dishes are tapas size—just enough so that several plates together offer a meal full of variety. Both the lunch and dinner menus feature seasonal dishes and nonseasonal staples, although the dinner menu does offer a few more choices.  

Through many visits I have acquired some favorites. The pao de queijo, warm dumplings of fried cheesy bread, are a Brazilian specialty and a popular favorite. There are only three on the plate, so if you’re part of a dining duo you’ll possibly be fighting over the last one. Another irresistible snack is the warmed herb goat cheese crostinis, rounds of garlic toast topped with a dollop of warmed chévre and fresh herbs, and luckily there are six on the plate. The oysters are definitely worth ordering, and with varieties such as Sweetwater and Kumamoto from the Hog Island Oyster Co. and Miyagi from Tomales Bay, don’t be afraid to mix and match.

As for the salads, the bread salad with a poached egg, bacon and a tangy citrus dressing is at the top of my list. But on a recent visit the ahi Niçoise caught my eye. Made of traditional salad Niçoise components—potatoes, green beans, hard-boiled egg—this version is topped with ahi tuna that is seared on the outside and raw in the center, just the way it should be.

For a small plate to share, the empanadas filled with ground beef (a vegetarian option is also available), and the arepas are delicious. Really, who can pass up fried bread stuffed with meat and vegetables? Another dish that is great for two is the scallops Benedict with a thick square of prociutto. The hollandaise sauce is slightly thicker than I’ve usually experienced, but is still a great hollandaise with a hefty kick of lemon. Although the soup options change often—one of the many dishes that highlights seasonality—the French onion soup is a constant on the menu.

Desserts are another place where the seasons play a role. One ever-present choice that always satisfies a sweet tooth involves chocolate—the hot fudge brownie. If you’re in the mood for a chocolaty pick-me-up, the Valrhona mocha hits the spot. Or pass up the sugar dessert and finish your meal with a selection from the comprehensive cheese menu, which features cheeses from across the U.S. and Europe. Complement any and all with the dessert wine flight.

Tucos Wine Market and Café
130 G St., Davis
(530) 757-6600
Open 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
Oysters and snacks: $1.50-21; soups, salads and small plates: $4-15; sandwiches and large plates: $8-35;
desserts: $8; wine by the bottle: $22-66; by the glass: $6-22; by the flight: $10-15.
 

Do you like what you read? Subscribe to Solano Magazine »